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  <front>
    <journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher">GMD</journal-id><journal-title-group>
    <journal-title>Geoscientific Model Development</journal-title>
    <abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="publisher">GMD</abbrev-journal-title><abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="nlm-ta">Geosci. Model Dev.</abbrev-journal-title>
  </journal-title-group><issn pub-type="epub">1991-9603</issn><publisher>
    <publisher-name>Copernicus Publications</publisher-name>
    <publisher-loc>Göttingen, Germany</publisher-loc>
  </publisher></journal-meta>
    <article-meta>
      <article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.5194/gmd-12-4013-2019</article-id><title-group><article-title>Simulating barrier island response to sea level rise with the barrier island and inlet environment (BRIE) model v1.0</article-title><alt-title>Simulating barrier island response to sea level rise</alt-title>
      </title-group><?xmltex \runningtitle{Simulating barrier island response to sea level rise}?><?xmltex \runningauthor{J.~H. Nienhuis and J. Lorenzo-Trueba}?>
      <contrib-group>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes" rid="aff1">
          <name><surname>Nienhuis</surname><given-names>Jaap H.</given-names></name>
          <email>j.h.nienhuis@uu.nl</email>
        <ext-link>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4296-7450</ext-link></contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="no" rid="aff2">
          <name><surname>Lorenzo-Trueba</surname><given-names>Jorge</given-names></name>
          
        </contrib>
        <aff id="aff1"><label>1</label><institution>Department of Physical Geography, Utrecht University, Utrecht, the Netherlands</institution>
        </aff>
        <aff id="aff2"><label>2</label><institution>Earth and Environmental Studies, Montclair State University,
Montclair, New Jersey, USA</institution>
        </aff>
      </contrib-group>
      <author-notes><corresp id="corr1">Jaap H. Nienhuis (j.h.nienhuis@uu.nl)</corresp></author-notes><pub-date><day>12</day><month>September</month><year>2019</year></pub-date>
      
      <volume>12</volume>
      <issue>9</issue>
      <fpage>4013</fpage><lpage>4030</lpage>
      <history>
        <date date-type="received"><day>13</day><month>January</month><year>2019</year></date>
           <date date-type="rev-request"><day>18</day><month>March</month><year>2019</year></date>
           <date date-type="rev-recd"><day>18</day><month>July</month><year>2019</year></date>
           <date date-type="accepted"><day>30</day><month>July</month><year>2019</year></date>
      </history>
      <permissions>
        <copyright-statement>Copyright: © 2019 Jaap H. Nienhuis</copyright-statement>
        <copyright-year>2019</copyright-year>
      <license license-type="open-access"><license-p>This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this licence, visit <ext-link ext-link-type="uri" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</ext-link></license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019.html">This article is available from https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019.html</self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019.pdf">The full text article is available as a PDF file from https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019.pdf</self-uri>
      <abstract><title>Abstract</title>
    <p id="d1e95">Barrier islands are low-lying coastal landforms vulnerable to
inundation and erosion by sea level rise. Despite their socioeconomic and
ecological importance, their future morphodynamic response to sea level rise
or other hazards is poorly understood. To tackle this knowledge gap, we
outline and describe the BarrieR Inlet Environment (BRIE) model that can
simulate long-term barrier morphodynamics. In addition to existing overwash
and shoreface formulations, BRIE accounts for alongshore sediment transport,
inlet dynamics, and flood–tidal delta deposition along barrier islands.
Inlets within BRIE can open, close, migrate, merge with other inlets, and
build flood–tidal delta deposits. Long-term simulations reveal complex
emergent behavior of tidal inlets resulting from interactions with sea level
rise and overwash. BRIE also includes a stratigraphic module, which
demonstrates that barrier dynamics under constant sea level rise rates can
result in stratigraphic profiles composed of inlet fill, flood–tidal delta,
and overwash deposits. In general, the BRIE model represents a process-based
exploratory view of barrier island morphodynamics that can be used to
investigate long-term risks of flooding and erosion in barrier environments.
For example, BRIE can simulate barrier island drowning in cases in which the
imposed sea level rise rate is faster than the morphodynamic response of the
barrier island.</p>
  </abstract>
    </article-meta>
  </front>
<body>
      

<sec id="Ch1.S1" sec-type="intro">
  <label>1</label><title>Introduction</title>
      <p id="d1e107">Barrier islands are long, narrow, sandy stretches of land that occupy a
significant fraction of modern coastlines around the world. Barriers are
often densely populated, support diverse ecological communities, and protect
bays and wetlands that provide a range of ecosystem services
(Barbier et al., 2011; McLachlan, 1983). Despite
their importance, there is a critical gap in our ability to predict how
barriers will respond to coastal change generally and sea level rise (SLR)
specifically. A necessary condition for barrier islands to migrate landwards
and keep up with SLR is sufficient sediment transport from the barrier front
to the top and back via overwash fan deposition and flood–tidal delta
formation (Armon
and McCann, 1979; Inman and Dolan, 1989; Kraft, 1971; Lorenzo-Trueba and
Ashton, 2014; Mallinson et al., 2010; Moore et al., 2010). There are few
constraints, however, on the potential magnitudes of these landward sediment
fluxes and how these fluxes vary as a function of the coastal setting, wave
climate, or SLR. Recent models  (e.g., Lorenzo-Trueba and
Ashton, 2014) have suggested formulations for overwash fluxes, but the
potential role of tidal fluxes, their feedbacks with overwash deposition,
and the resulting ability of barriers to keep pace with SLR remain
unclear.</p>
      <p id="d1e110">Here we present the BarrieR Inlet Environment (BRIE) model to address this
fundamental knowledge gap. Transgression in the model is driven by two main
processes: overwash sedimentation and flood–tidal delta deposition
(Leatherman, 1979; Pierce, 1969,
1970). To date, models that have aimed to assess barrier island change over geological
timescales typically account for only storm overwash, which is more
suitable for a cross-sectional framework. Tidal inlets, however, have been
suggested to contribute a large fraction of the transgressive sediment
movement in a number of field studies
(Pierce, 1969, 1970). The BRIE model extends
the formulations of Lorenzo-Trueba and Ashton (2014) (LTA14) in
the alongshore direction and incorporates tidal inlet morphodynamics
through Delft3D-derived<?pagebreak page4014?> parameterizations
(Nienhuis and Ashton, 2016, NA16). The
purpose of the model is twofold: (i) to better understand long-term barrier
island morphodynamics, including the effects of, for example, sea level rise,
human development (jetties, beach nourishment), or storm pattern changes,
and (ii) to improve paleoenvironment reconstructions.</p>
      <p id="d1e113">Section 2 of this paper provides a background on barrier island
environments and recent model developments. In Sect. 3, we discuss model
formulations, including overwash fluxes, alongshore sediment transport, and
tidal inlet morphodynamics. Section 4 includes a model run that demonstrates
the capabilities of the BRIE framework, including inlet dynamics alongshore
and the generation of alongshore stratigraphic profiles. Section 5 explores
model sensitivity to grid and time resolution, as well as a comparison to
other barrier island models. We conclude with a few exploratory results and
a discussion of potential model applications.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2">
  <label>2</label><title>Background</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS1">
  <label>2.1</label><title>Barrier islands and SLR</title>
      <p id="d1e131">Barrier islands are narrow strips of land formed by waves through a variety
of (hypothesized) mechanisms  (e.g.,
Gilbert, 1885; McGee, 1890; Penland et al., 1985) associated with
relatively slow SLR rates and primarily passive margins (FitzGerald
et al., 2008; Stutz and Pilkey, 2011, McBride et al., 2013). The emergence of
many barrier islands can be traced back to about 6000 years before present,
when Holocene SLR slowed down (McBride
et al., 2013).</p>
      <p id="d1e134">However, the relationship between barrier islands and SLR is complex. Under
no SLR, barrier islands are generally not observed as their associated
back-barrier environments would fill completely
(e.g., Beets and van der Spek, 2000). In
contrast, under moderate SLR rates marshes and tidal flats generally occupy
back-barrier environments. In this case, to maintain their elevation with respect
to sea level, barriers migrate towards land as storm overwash and flood–tidal flows deposit sediment. Under higher SLR rates, however, it is more
difficult for barriers to maintain their subaerial portion above sea level.
Consequently, when onshore-directed sediment fluxes are insufficient,
barrier islands drown in place and are left offshore
(Rodriguez et al., 2001;
Mellet and Plater, 2018). Additionally, when onshore-directed sediment flux events are
very intense and frequent, barrier islands are unable to maintain their
geometry as they rapidly migrate towards land, which also results in
drowning  (Lorenzo-Trueba and Ashton, 2014). This potentially
delicate balance between SLR and barrier response, together with the current
projections of future acceleration in SLR, highlight the need to better
constrain onshore-directed sediment fluxes in different barriers island
systems (Carruthers
et al., 2013; Lazarus, 2016; e.g., McCall et al., 2010; Rogers et al.,
2015).</p><?xmltex \hack{\newpage}?>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS2">
  <label>2.2</label><title>Barrier overwash</title>
      <p id="d1e146">One way for sediment to be transported across the barrier is through storm
overwash. Differences in water-level setup between the ocean and the lagoon
during a storm can force the flow of water and sediment through and above
the subaerial portion of the barrier. Most frequently this flow is directed
landward, resulting in the transport of sediment from the ocean to the bayside
where it deposits as the flow spreads laterally into the lagoon
(Carruthers et
al., 2013; Donnelly et al., 2006). Although this process is complex and
highly intermittent, individual storm events integrated over time result in
a net landward sediment flux, which allows barriers to keep pace with SLR
over geological timescales  (Leatherman, 1983). Despite its
importance in terms of future barrier island morphodynamic response and
vulnerability to flooding  (Miselis and Lorenzo-Trueba, 2017),
this long-term landward sediment flux is generally poorly constrained, and
its relationship with modern overwash fluxes is not straightforward
(Carruthers
et al., 2013; Donnelly et al., 2006; Lazarus, 2016; Rogers et al., 2015).
This lack of constraints on long-term overwash fluxes has resulted in a
suite of barrier island models that do not compute overwash processes as a
function of single storm events. Instead, such models parameterize overwash
volume fluxes as a function of barrier geometry and observations of barrier
island migration. For example, Leatherman (1979) observed
that narrow barrier islands tend to be more susceptible to overwash events
than wide barrier islands. They defined a “critical barrier width” below
which overwash is frequent and the barrier migrates rapidly and above which
overwash and barrier migration tend to be slow. Based on these findings,
overwash is often parameterized by assuming the volume is inversely
proportional to island width (e.g.,
Jiménez and Sánchez-Arcilla, 2004; Lorenzo-Trueba and Ashton, 2014)
and additionally adjusted based on local factors such as land use
(e.g., Rogers et al., 2015).</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS3">
  <label>2.3</label><title>Tidal inlets</title>
      <p id="d1e157">Aside from storm overwash, tidal inlets have also been found to be a major
contributor to barrier transgression (Inman and
Dolan, 1989; Moslow and Heron, 1978; Pierce, 1969). Tidal inlets derive
their transgressive potential through the deposition of flood–tidal deltas.
The volume of flood–tidal delta deposits correlates with the size of the
associated inlet  (Powell et al., 2006). Simple
equilibrium models (e.g., Stive et al., 1998)
suggest that initially flood–tidal deltas grow fast but that their growth
slows down as they approach an equilibrium volume and the bay fills up near
the inlet. Inlet migration can therefore add to transgressive transport by
exposing new bay to flood–tidal delta deposition
(Nienhuis and Ashton, 2016). For these two
reasons, it has been hypothesized that short-lived and rapidly migrating
inlets are most efficient for barrier transgression  (Pierce,
1970). However, if the migration rate and life span of tidal inlets correlate
with sediment<?pagebreak page4015?> import, their potential for transgression should then depend
on factors such as basin size, ocean waves, and tidal conditions.</p>
      <p id="d1e160">Along extended barrier coastlines, barrier morphodynamics are complicated by
the existence of multiple tidal inlets. Tidal inlets interact through their
control on water surface elevation in the tidal basin. This interaction can
cause inlets to close or change size (van de Kreeke
et al., 2008; Roos et al., 2013). Observations of tidal inlet spacing
(Davis and Hayes, 1984), corroborated by a
recent modeling study  (Roos et al., 2013),
found that increasing tidal range and basin size can allow inlets to exist
closer together. For a barrier coast, a greater number of inlets likely
enhances their contribution to barrier transgression.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS4">
  <label>2.4</label><title>Previous numerical modeling efforts</title>
      <p id="d1e171">The joint long-term effect of storm overwash and tidal inlets on barrier
island evolution remains difficult to quantify. On the one hand, engineering
models typically assess barrier island changes over annual to decadal
timescales, which includes overwash fluxes and tidal inlet formation during
storm events. For example, models such as XBeach
(McCall
et al., 2010; Roelvink et al., 2009) resolve wave dynamics coupled with
sediment transport during storm events and are able to capture barrier
morphological changes, including breaching. On decadal timescales, models
like Delft3D  (Deltares, 2014) have been applied to study inlets,
but these typically do not include the effect of storms or SLR
(e.g., Tung et al., 2009; NA16). On longer timescales,
models no longer use laboratory-validated sediment transport relationships
but rather use various degrees of conceptual relationships between barrier
geometry and barrier island movement (Cowell
et al. 1995; Storms et al., 2002; Stolper et al., 2005; Masetti et al., 2008;
Wolinsky and Murray, 2009; LTA14). Some of these
models are morphokinematic, i.e., based upon the conservation of mass and
the maintenance of barrier geometry (Cowell et al., 1995, Wolinsky and Murray,
2009; Stolper, 2005). The models developed by Storms et al. (2002), Masetti et al. (2008), and LTA14 are morphodynamic as
they account for sediment fluxes along the shoreface and across the barrier
island. LTA14 represents a significant simplification compared to other
morphodynamic models, making it suitable for model extensions and model
coupling (such as the one presented here).</p>
      <p id="d1e174">Coming from a different angle, the ASMITA (Aggregated Scale Morphological
Interaction between Tidal inlets and the Adjacent coast) model couples
coasts to their back-barrier environment via sediment exchanges determined
by the deviation of a morphological element (ebb delta, tidal flat, etc.)
from an assumed equilibrium volume. ASMITA has been developed in part to
understand the effects of SLR on inlets and their back-barrier environments
(van Goor
et al., 2003; Stive et al., 1998; Townend et al., 2016). Inlets cannot close
or migrate, and the model does not account for overwash processes
(Stive et al., 1998). In ASMITA, as well as other
back-barrier models (van  Maanen et al., 2013;
Mariotti and Canestrelli, 2017), the maximum potential sediment import
through tidal inlets exerts a first-order control on the ability of
back-barrier environments to sustain themselves during SLR.</p>
      <p id="d1e177">Here, we describe a new model (BRIE) that accounts for tidal inlet dynamics,
including opening, closing, and lateral migration, combined with barrier
overwash processes as described by LTA14. Within the realm of coastal
geomorphological models, BRIE can be considered a large-scale coastal
behavioral (LSCB) model  (de Vriend et al., 1993). It seeks
to represent only the main governing mechanisms of the coast at appropriate
timescales, without fully resolving the mechanics of fluid and
sediment transport. There is a rich body of literature concerning LSCB
models, ranging from rocky coasts (Walkden
and Hall, 2011), barrier islands  (Stolper et al.,
2005; LTA14), tidal basins (Townend et al.,
2016), tidal inlets (Kraus, 2000), and sandy
coastlines  (Ashton et al., 2001), to
aggregates of LSCB models that couple these elements (Ashton et
al., 2013; Payo et al., 2017). To our knowledge, BRIE would be the first to
explicitly couple barrier islands and tidal inlet morphodynamics. Despite
its simplicity, BRIE provides a novel approach to study the evolution of
barrier islands under decadal to millennial timescales. Moreover, it allows
us to explore complex barrier dynamics across a wide range of parameter
values.</p>
</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3">
  <label>3</label><title>Model</title>
      <p id="d1e189">We developed the BRIE modeling framework to study barrier island response to
SLR. The model incorporates longshore interactions by linking the
cross-shore barrier island model presented by LTA14 in a series of dynamic
cross-shore profiles. We apply the storm overwash and shoreface response
functions independently in each cell (Fig. 1). Feedbacks between overwash
dynamics alongshore arise through the coupling with alongshore sediment
transport, which can adjust the shoreline location and influence the
shoreface slope and barrier overwash. The model also accounts for the
formation, closing, and migration of tidal inlets following the
parameterizations from NA16 (Fig. 1).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F1" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{1}?><label>Figure 1</label><caption><p id="d1e194">Schematized model domain in <bold>(a)</bold> the plan view
highlighting the three moving boundaries (the shoreface toe, shoreline, and
the back-barrier (lagoon) location) and the sediment fluxes that determine
their coupling. Vectors indicate the direction of potential changes, with
the dot symbolizing a movement up. <bold>(b)</bold> Implementation of fine sediment
dynamics into the barrier overwash model. <bold>(c)</bold> A close-up of <bold>(a)</bold>, showing the
littoral sediment fractionation within an inlet and its translation to
barrier change. <bold>(d)</bold> A close-up of <bold>(b)</bold>, showing the barrier volume deficit
approach. See Table 1 for model variable names and units.</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=398.338583pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f01.png"/>

      </fig>

      <p id="d1e222">To our knowledge, this is the first morphodynamic model for long-term
(decadal to millennial timescales) barrier island evolution that accounts
for both tidal and overwash sediment fluxes. The model is written in MATLAB,
and a typical runtime for a 100 km long barrier island stretch over a 10 000-year simulation is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M1" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> min. Its simplicity and
computational speed enable us to explore model behavior for a wide range of
parameter values.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F2" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{2}?><label>Figure 2</label><caption><p id="d1e238">Model structure showing the time loop in which the model
updates SLR and calculates resulting barrier island change.</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=497.923228pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f02.png"/>

      </fig>

<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS1">
  <label>3.1</label><title>General description and model setup</title>
      <p id="d1e254">After initializing the environment (typically <inline-formula><mml:math id="M2" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">100</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> km long
barrier island with periodic boundaries) and determining wave climate and
shoreface parameters (Table 1), we run<?pagebreak page4016?> each time step in a for loop. In each
iteration, we first raise sea level (Fig. 2). SLR affects subaerial barrier
volume and shoreface slope, which in turn drives overwash and shoreface
fluxes (Sect. 3.2).</p>

<?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><table-wrap id="Ch1.T1" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{1}?><label>Table 1</label><caption><p id="d1e270">Model variables and their dimensions. Shortened references
are as follows: LTA14  (Lorenzo-Trueba and Ashton, 2014), B80 (Bowen, 1980), N15 (Nienhuis et al.,
2015), R13  (Roos et al., 2013), SH85
(Sallenger and Holman, 1985), SZ09
(de Swart and Zimmerman, 2009), AM06
(Ashton and Murray, 2006), NA16
(Nienhuis and Ashton, 2016).</p></caption><oasis:table frame="topbot"><oasis:tgroup cols="4">
     <oasis:colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" align="left"/>
     <oasis:thead>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">Name</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Value</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">Units</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">Explanation</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:thead>
     <oasis:tbody>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry namest="col1" nameend="col4">Independent variables </oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M3" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">1025</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">kg m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M4" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">density of water</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M5" display="inline"><mml:mi>R</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">1.65</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">submerged specific gravity of sediment</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M6" display="inline"><mml:mi>g</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">9.81</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M7" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">gravitational acceleration</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M8" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">2</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">critical barrier height (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M9" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">10</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">s</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">peak wave period</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M10" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">background slope (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M11" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M12" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>×</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">median grain size</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M13" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.01</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">suspended sediment transport efficiency factor (B80)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M14" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>c</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.01</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">friction factor (B80)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M15" display="inline"><mml:mi>k</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.06</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M16" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M17" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">alongshore sediment transport constant (NAG15)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M18" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">storm</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">yr</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">minimum period between inlet forming storms</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M19" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">minimum distance between tidal inlets (R13)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M20" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M21" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1.4</mml:mn><mml:mo>×</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M22" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">offshore tidal radial frequency</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M23" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">aspect</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.01</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">inlet aspect ratio (depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M24" display="inline"><mml:mo>/</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> width)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M25" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.05</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">s m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M26" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">manning roughness coefficient (vegetated tidal lagoon)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M27" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.4</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">wave breaking criterion (SH85)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M28" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">1</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M29" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">tidal inlet equilibrium velocity (SZ09)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M30" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">critical barrier width (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M31" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">max</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M32" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M33" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M34" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">maximum barrier overwash flux (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M35" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">back-barrier lagoon depth</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M36" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">deepwater significant wave height</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M37" display="inline"><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of waves approaching from the left, looking offshore (AM06)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M38" display="inline"><mml:mi>h</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.2</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of waves approaching at a high angle (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M39" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&gt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">45</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula><inline-formula><mml:math id="M40" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>) (AM06)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M41" display="inline"><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">˙</mml:mo></mml:mover></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M42" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">sea level rise rate</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M43" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">alongshore grid spacing</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M44" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">yr</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">time step</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M45" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">offshore tidal amplitude</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M46" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">marsh</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">varied</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of the lagoon surface area not contributing to the tidal prism</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry namest="col1" nameend="col4">Dependent variables </oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M47" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M48" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreface slope (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M49" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (15)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">equilibrium shoreface slope</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M50" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (14)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreface depth (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M51" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (37)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M52" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M53" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreline diffusivity (AM06)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M54" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (11)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction fines in the barrier</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M55" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (1)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">position of the shoreface toe (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M56" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eqs. (2), (35), (36)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">position of the shoreline (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M57" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eqs. (3), (17), (34)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">position of the back barrier (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M58" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (4)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">height of the barrier (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M59" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (6)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M60" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M61" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M62" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">overwash flux deposited in the back barrier (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M63" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (5)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M64" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M65" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M66" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">overwash flux deposited on top of the existing barrier (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M67" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (8)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M68" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M69" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier height deficit (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M70" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (7)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M71" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M72" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier width deficit (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M73" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M74" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">minimum integration depth for shoreface flux</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M75" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (12</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M76" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M77" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M78" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreface response rate (LTA14)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M79" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>w</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (16)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M80" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">settling velocity</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M81" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (9)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M82" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M83" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M84" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreface flux</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M85" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M86" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier width</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M87" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (24)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">offshore wave direction</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M88" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">arctan(d<inline-formula><mml:math id="M89" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>d<inline-formula><mml:math id="M90" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">shoreline angle</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:tbody>
   </oasis:tgroup></oasis:table></table-wrap>

<?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><table-wrap id="Ch1.T2" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{1}?><label>Table 1</label><caption><p id="d1e1931">Continued.</p></caption><oasis:table frame="topbot"><oasis:tgroup cols="4">
     <oasis:colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" align="left"/>
     <oasis:thead>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">Name</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Value</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">Units</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">Explanation</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:thead>
     <oasis:tbody>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry namest="col1" nameend="col4">Dependent variables </oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M91" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (23)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M92" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M93" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M94" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">alongshore sediment flux into inlet</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M95" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M96" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">aspect</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">inlet depth</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M97" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M98" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">aspect</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">inlet width</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M99" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M100" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">cross-shore width of the lagoon</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M101" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"/>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">alongshore length of the lagoon draining to a particular tidal inlet</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M102" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (21)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M103" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">inlet cross-sectional area</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M104" display="inline"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (22)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M105" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">inlet flow velocity</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M106" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M107" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M108" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M109" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier cross-sectional area</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M110" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">downdrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M111" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M112" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M113" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier cross-sectional area downdrift of an inlet</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M114" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">updrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M115" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M116" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M117" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">barrier cross-sectional area updrift of an inlet</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M118" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (26)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M119" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> deposited as new barrier (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M120" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (28)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M121" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> that bypasses the inlet (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M122" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (30)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M123" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> that deposits as flood–tidal delta (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M124" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (27)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">eroded barrier deposited as new barrier, fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M125" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M126" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (29)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">eroded barrier deposited in the littoral zone, fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M127" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M128" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (31)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">eroded barrier deposited in flood–tidal delta, fraction of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M129" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (NA16)</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry namest="col1" nameend="col4">Model output </oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M130" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">overwash</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"/>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M131" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M132" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M133" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">transgressive flux due to storm overwash</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M134" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (47)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M135" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M136" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M137" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">transgressive flux due to tidal inlets</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M138" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">Eq. (46)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">–</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">fraction of the transgressive flux from inlets</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:tbody>
   </oasis:tgroup></oasis:table></table-wrap>

      <p id="d1e2818">Next, we determine if new inlets should be formed (Sect. 3.3.1), in which
case we analyze their hydrodynamics and calculate their equilibrium
dimensions. For each inlet, we distribute sediments into the flood–tidal
delta, the barrier island, and the shoreface (Sect. 3.3.3). Flood–tidal
delta deposition changes the back-barrier location (Fig. 1). After each
time step, we add the different sources and sinks to the coastal zone,
including diffusive wave-driven alongshore sediment transport, and
implicitly determine a new shoreline, back-barrier, and shoreface toe
position. See Table 1 for an overview of all model parameters and units.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS2">
  <label>3.2</label><title>Cross-shore morphodynamics</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS2.SSS1">
  <label>3.2.1</label><title>Cross-shore barrier model</title>
      <?pagebreak page4018?><p id="d1e2836">At a minimum, barrier islands can be described in the cross-shore dimension
as composites of three regions: the active shoreface on the ocean side, the
subaerial portion of the barrier island, and the back-barrier lagoon on the
terrestrial side, where infrequent overwash processes determine the volume
of onshore-directed sediment fluxes (LTA14). Note that the overwash model is
applied independently for every alongshore cell <inline-formula><mml:math id="M139" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, from 1 to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M140" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 1),
but we leave out these indices for clarity. Assuming an idealized geometry,
the cross-shore evolution of the barrier system can be fully determined with
the rates of migration of the shoreface toe (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M141" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E1" content-type="numbered"><label>1</label><mml:math id="M142" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">˙</mml:mo></mml:mover></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            the shoreline (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M143" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E2" content-type="numbered"><label>2</label><mml:math id="M144" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            the back-barrier shoreline (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M145" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E3" content-type="numbered"><label>3</label><mml:math id="M146" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            and the barrier height above sea level (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M147" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E4" content-type="numbered"><label>4</label><mml:math id="M148" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">˙</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M149" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the sediment flux at the shoreface, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M150" display="inline"><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">˙</mml:mo></mml:mover></mml:math></inline-formula> is the SLR
rate, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M151" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the top-barrier overwash component, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M152" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the
back-barrier overwash component. Other variables and parameters are defined
in Table 1. Note that Eqs. (1)–(4) follow the barrier island model of LTA14
except for the (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M153" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) factor in Eq. (2) that accounts for fine-grained sediment
in the back barrier. We discuss this modification in Sect. 3.2.2.</p>
      <p id="d1e3272">We compute overwash flux using a simple formulation that assumes the
existence of a critical barrier width (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M154" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) and a critical barrier
height (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M155" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) beyond which there is no overwash to the back and the top
of the barrier, respectively. When the barrier width (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M156" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) and height
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M157" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) are below their critical values, the overwash rates <inline-formula><mml:math id="M158" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M159" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> scale with their associated deficit volumes, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M160" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M161" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, resulting in an overwash flux heightening the barrier,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E5" content-type="numbered"><label>5</label><mml:math id="M162" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">max</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mo>max⁡</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            and an overwash flux widening the barrier,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E6" content-type="numbered"><label>6</label><mml:math id="M163" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">max</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mo>max⁡</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            We define the volume deficits with respect to an equilibrium defined by the
critical barrier width and height (LTA14). In this way, we can compute
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M164" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M165" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> as follows:

                  <disp-formula specific-use="gather" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M166" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E7"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>7</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo movablelimits="false">max⁡</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close="]" open="["><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E8"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>8</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo movablelimits="false">max⁡</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close="]" open="["><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">crit</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

              The shoreface flux (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M167" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) is controlled by the shoreface response rate
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M168" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) and the deviation of the shoreface slope from its equilibrium
slope,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E9" content-type="numbered"><label>9</label><mml:math id="M169" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS2.SSS2">
  <label>3.2.2</label><title>Modifications to the LTA14 barrier model</title>
      <p id="d1e3778">All the above formulations are identical to LTA14 except for Eq. (2), which we
adjust to account for   fine sediments in<?pagebreak page4019?> the back barrier. LTA14 assumes a
back-barrier depth geometrically determined as
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M170" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 1), where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M171" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the basement
slope. This depth assumes the absence of back-barrier sediment deposition
(i.e., <inline-formula><mml:math id="M172" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M173" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the fine sediment fraction) and therefore represents
the upper-limit depth. The BRIE model accounts for fine sediment deposition
by selecting a back-barrier depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M174" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (see Eq. 3) that is within the
range 0<inline-formula><mml:math id="M175" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>≤</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>≤</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. We then
compute the fine sediment thickness in the back barrier (Fig. 1) as
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E10" content-type="numbered"><label>10</label><mml:math id="M176" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">fines</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            In turn, we can geometrically define <inline-formula><mml:math id="M177" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> as follows:
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E11" content-type="numbered"><label>11</label><mml:math id="M178" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">fines</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">fines</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            As barriers migrate towards land, fine sediments are absorbed in the bayside and exported at the shoreface on the ocean side; this is a dynamic that can
play a significant role in the total barrier sediment volume changes
(Brenner et al., 2015). BRIE accounts for fine
sediment export at the shoreface by assuming that the fine sediment fraction
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M179" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> given by Eq. (11) is representative of the entire cross section of the
barrier and that the sediment exchange between the upper and lower
shoreface <inline-formula><mml:math id="M180" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is not affected by the presence of fine sediments. In this
way, Eq. (2) accounts for the fact that the fine sediment fraction <inline-formula><mml:math id="M181" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> of the
overwash sediment volume extracted from the shoreface does not contribute to
the total volume of the barrier. In other words, only a fraction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M182" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) of the
shoreface volume eroded (i.e., <inline-formula><mml:math id="M183" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> deposits on top and/or back of the barrier (Fig. 3).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F3" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{3}?><label>Figure 3</label><caption><p id="d1e4033">Effect of lagoon depth (fine sediment fraction) on <bold>(a)</bold> the
overwash flux, <bold>(b) </bold> the barrier width, and <bold>(c)</bold> the shoreline location. More
overwash flux is needed to maintain a barrier with a deep lagoon, resulting
in barrier drowning for a lagoon depth of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M184" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&gt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">8</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m, where the
required barrier overwash flux is greater than the maximum potential
overwash flux <inline-formula><mml:math id="M185" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">max</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p></caption>
            <?xmltex \igopts{width=455.244094pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f03.png"/>

          </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS2.SSS3">
  <label>3.2.3</label><title>Parameter estimation for the LTA14 model</title>
      <p id="d1e4086">The cross-shore barrier model is a function of several parameters, including
the shoreface depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M186" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, the equilibrium shoreface slope <inline-formula><mml:math id="M187" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and
the shoreface response rate <inline-formula><mml:math id="M188" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. These three parameters, although
generally poorly constrained, can be estimated as a function of wave and
sediment characteristics (e.g., characteristic sediment grain size
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M189" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, significant wave height <inline-formula><mml:math id="M190" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>). This allows us to investigate how
storm overwash, alongshore transport, and inlet dynamics covary for a
particular environment.</p>
      <p id="d1e4149">The shoreface response rate can be viewed as the integrated cross-shore
sediment transport flux between a depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M191" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> below wave breaking and the
shoreface depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M192" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>  (LTA14; Ortiz and Ashton, 2016). Here we
integrate the shoreface flux <inline-formula><mml:math id="M193" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (converted from meters per second  into units of
meters per year),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E12" content-type="numbered"><label>12</label><mml:math id="M194" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3600</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">24</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">365</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:mo>∫</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:msup><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">32</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>w</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msup><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M195" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">16</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>C</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">15</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M196" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M197" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) is
the local wave height at depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M198" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>. We solve this integral assuming <inline-formula><mml:math id="M199" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M200" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) is a
shallow-water wave that can be estimated by the offshore wave climate and a
shoaling coefficient, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M201" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:msqrt><mml:mi>g</mml:mi></mml:msqrt><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. We derive a simple analytical expression of the integrated
shoreface response rate,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E13" content-type="numbered"><label>13</label><mml:math id="M202" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3600</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">24</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">365</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>c</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msup><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">11</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msup><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">960</mml:mn><mml:mi>R</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">7</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msup><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>w</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">11</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">11</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">11</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">11</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where we estimate <inline-formula><mml:math id="M203" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> as the breaking wave depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M204" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M205" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is 0.4  (Sallenger and Holman, 1985).</p>
      <p id="d1e4602">We determine the shoreface depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M206" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (m) using an empirical relationship
based on the wave characteristics  (Hallermeier,
1981),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E14" content-type="numbered"><label>14</label><mml:math id="M207" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.018</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msqrt><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">RD</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msqrt><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            We estimate the shoreface equilibrium slope <inline-formula><mml:math id="M208" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> as the slope at the
depth of closure  (Lorenzo-Trueba and Ashton, 2014),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E15" content-type="numbered"><label>15</label><mml:math id="M209" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi>w</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi>T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:mi>g</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where the settling velocity is calculated based on the empirical formulation
developed by Ferguson and Church (2004),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E16" content-type="numbered"><label>16</label><mml:math id="M210" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>w</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>R</mml:mi><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">18</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>R</mml:mi><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS3">
  <label>3.3</label><title>Inlet model</title>
      <p id="d1e4816">Inlets can form along barrier island chains if there is sufficient potential
for tidal flow between the lagoon and the open ocean  (Escoffier,
1940). In turn, the potential for tidal flow is determined by factors
influencing the potential tidal prism (e.g., the proximity of other tidal
inlets nearby, the width and depth of the basin and the barrier, the marsh
cover) and factors reducing tidal flow (e.g., tidal inlet friction,
wave-driven transport into tidal inlets). Once inlets exist, they alter
barrier morphodynamics by distributing sediments and enhancing storm
overwash potential.</p>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS3.SSS1">
  <label>3.3.1</label><title>Inlet formation</title>
      <?pagebreak page4020?><p id="d1e4826">We allow the model to form new tidal inlets every <inline-formula><mml:math id="M211" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">storm</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> years at the
location of minimum barrier volume <inline-formula><mml:math id="M212" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">barrier</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M213" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">storm</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> can be
considered a storm return time. An inlet can only form at a distance of
at least <inline-formula><mml:math id="M214" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> away from current inlets, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M215" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is a minimum
inlet spacing  (Roos et al., 2013). Although
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M216" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is likely dependent on a wide range of factors, we are not aware of
field constraints on its value and therefore choose a constant <inline-formula><mml:math id="M217" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. We
do not open a new inlet if the flow velocity through a new inlet is
insufficient (see below). If a new inlet is opened, we place the barrier
volume in the flood–tidal delta by increasing the back-barrier location,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E17" content-type="numbered"><label>17</label><mml:math id="M218" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">breach</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            with the implicit assumption that the flood–tidal delta top is approximately
at sea level. Although inlets cannot open closer than <inline-formula><mml:math id="M219" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">min</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> away from
existing inlets, differences in inlet migration rates can cause inlets to
exist closer to each other (and merge). Additionally, inlets can also form
when a section of the barrier drowns (negative barrier cross-sectional
volume, i.e., <inline-formula><mml:math id="M220" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">barrier</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&lt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>), regardless of the distance to other
existing inlets.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F4"><?xmltex \currentcnt{4}?><label>Figure 4</label><caption><p id="d1e4982">Analytical solutions to the equations that govern tidal
inlet size (Eq. 21) as a function of tidal basin area and offshore tidal
amplitude, illustrating that <bold>(a)</bold> inlets close if a velocity amplitude of 1 m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M221" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> cannot be maintained, <bold>(b)</bold> inlet cross-sectional area is dependent on
tidal amplitude and tidal basin area, and <bold>(c)</bold> lagoon and inlet friction
reduce the volume of water transported through the inlet, which is less than
the potential tidal prism (offshore tidal range multiplied by intertidal
area).</p></caption>
            <?xmltex \igopts{width=236.157874pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f04.png"/>

          </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS3.SSS2">
  <label>3.3.2</label><title>Inlet hydrodynamics</title>
      <p id="d1e5020">At every time step, we compute the distance among all inlets. Assuming the
lagoon water drains to the nearest inlets, we determine the lagoon area per
tidal inlet (the potential for tidal prism) by multiplying the water surface
area (i.e., <inline-formula><mml:math id="M222" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) with a predefined fraction
occupied by marshes, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M223" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">marsh</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
      <p id="d1e5052">We compute inlet characteristics such as cross-sectional area and flow
velocities based on de Swart and Zimmerman (2009),
who in turn followed ideas established by Escoffier (1940) (Fig. 4). We solve the inlet area–velocity relationship
(Escoffier, 1940; de Swart and Zimmerman, 2009)
analytically for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M224" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, meaning that inlets adjust to maintain an
equilibrium tidal velocity amplitude whereby sediments will be neither
deposited nor eroded. In this situation, the nondimensionalized equilibrium
inlet cross-sectional area is given by
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E18" content-type="numbered"><label>18</label><mml:math id="M225" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msup><mml:msub><mml:mi>F</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>F</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M226" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>F</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E19" content-type="numbered"><label>19</label><mml:math id="M227" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>F</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:msqrt><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msqrt><mml:msqrt><mml:mtable class="substack"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">9</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">27</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:msup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:msubsup></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">27</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">18</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msup><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            In  this formulation, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M228" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is a resonance nondimensional
cross-sectional area,   <inline-formula><mml:math id="M229" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is a nondimensional equilibrium velocity, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M230" display="inline"><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover></mml:math></inline-formula> is the ratio of the potential tidal prism and the inlet friction,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E20" content-type="numbered"><label>20</label><mml:math id="M231" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">aspect</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">marsh</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>g</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">8</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msub><mml:mi>c</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where the drag coefficient <inline-formula><mml:math id="M232" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>c</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (de Swart and Zimmerman, 2009).</p>
      <p id="d1e5641">Based on <inline-formula><mml:math id="M233" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> we determine the dimensional inlet
cross-sectional area (m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M234" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E21" content-type="numbered"><label>21</label><mml:math id="M235" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">marsh</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            and the corresponding water velocity through the inlet,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E22" content-type="numbered"><label>22</label><mml:math id="M236" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>g</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msubsup><mml:mfenced open="[" close="]"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ξ</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ξ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msup><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M237" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ξ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">γ</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:msubsup><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:msubsup><mml:msup><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mover accent="true"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">̃</mml:mo></mml:mover><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">H</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The inlet area
function (Eq. 21) evaluates to the largest cross-sectional area for which
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M238" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (1 m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M239" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> in all simulations) if an equilibrium inlet area
exists (Fig. 4). The inlet velocity evaluates to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M240" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&lt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> if an
equilibrium does not exist (the friction through the inlet exceeds the
potential tidal prism), at which point the inlet will close. Inlets adjust
instantaneously to changes. Waves do not influence the size of the inlet,
but alongshore sediment transport is assumed to be present to maintain an
inlet to its equilibrium size.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F5" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{5}?><label>Figure 5</label><caption><p id="d1e5911">BRIE without inlets showing barrier response to variations in the
initial back-barrier position <inline-formula><mml:math id="M241" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>   (see also Ashton and
Lorenzo-Trueba, 2018), <bold>(a)</bold> <inline-formula><mml:math id="M242" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M243" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> at five instances; <bold>(b)</bold> barrier width as a
function of time. Minima in barrier width drive faster transgression, which
in turn results in wider barriers through the accumulation of alongshore
sediment.</p></caption>
            <?xmltex \igopts{width=455.244094pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f05.png"/>

          </fig>

</sec>
<?pagebreak page4021?><sec id="Ch1.S3.SS3.SSS3">
  <label>3.3.3</label><title>Alongshore sediment transport into inlets</title>
      <p id="d1e5967">We calculate alongshore sediment transport into inlets (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M244" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, converted
from cubic meters per second to cubic meters per year) based on the CERC formula recast into deepwater wave properties (AM06),
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E23" content-type="numbered"><label>23</label><mml:math id="M245" display="block"><mml:mtable rowspacing="0.2ex" columnspacing="1em" class="split" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3600</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">24</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">365</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">12</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msubsup><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mstyle scriptlevel="+1"><mml:mfrac><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:msup><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>
            where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M246" display="inline"><mml:mi>k</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is a constant that is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M247" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.06</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M248" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M249" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>
(Nienhuis et al., 2015), and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M250" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the wave direction.
Shoreline orientation <inline-formula><mml:math id="M251" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is defined by <inline-formula><mml:math id="M252" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. We
determine the wave direction at every time step from a cumulative
distribution function defined by the wave asymmetry <inline-formula><mml:math id="M253" display="inline"><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and wave highness <inline-formula><mml:math id="M254" display="inline"><mml:mi>h</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>
(Ashton and Murray, 2006),

                  <disp-formula specific-use="gather" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M255" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E24"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>24</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mi>X</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E25"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>25</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><?xmltex \hack{\hbox\bgroup\fontsize{8.5}{8.5}\selectfont$\displaystyle}?><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close="" open="{"><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="left left left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><?xmltex \hack{$\egroup}?></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

              where  <inline-formula><mml:math id="M256" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is uniformly distributed between 0 and 1.</p>
      <p id="d1e6497">Note that although we estimate sediment transport into inlets based on this
method, we do not calculate shoreline change based on this particular wave
angle at every time step. Instead, for model stability and efficiency, we
calculate shoreline change using an implicit time step nonlinear diffusion
equation, with inlets, storm overwash, and cross-shore shoreface transport
acting as sediment sources or sinks (see Sect. 3.5.2).</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS3.SSS4">
  <label>3.3.4</label><title>Inlet morphodynamics</title>
      <p id="d1e6509">After we have determined inlet cross-sectional area and wave-driven
transport into the inlet, we distribute sediments between the updrift and
downdrift portions of the inlet and the flood–tidal delta, following
the parameterizations of NA16 (Fig. 1). Inlets can migrate and erode into a
barrier and also deposit a barrier. Inlets also form flood–tidal deltas.
Ebb–tidal deltas are absent from this formulation because they do not
present a sink from the littoral zone. Ebb–tidal deltas, however, implicitly
determine the rate of inlet migration and the size of the flood–tidal delta
through their effect on waves and currents (NA16).</p>
      <p id="d1e6512">Inlet migration and flood–tidal delta deposition rates are dependent on the
alongshore sediment transport into the inlet <inline-formula><mml:math id="M257" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and the sediment
distribution fractions <inline-formula><mml:math id="M258" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M259" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M260" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M261" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>,
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M262" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M263" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 1; NA16). These fractions are
determined by Delft3D model experiments and parameterized as

                  <disp-formula specific-use="gather" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M264" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E26"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>26</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E27"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>27</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.6</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E28"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>28</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E29"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>29</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.9</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E30"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>30</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E31"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>31</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">downdrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">updrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">updrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

              where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M265" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">updrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M266" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">downdrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are <inline-formula><mml:math id="M267" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>  (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M268" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M269" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), the barrier cross-sectional area updrift and downdrift of the inlet,
respectively.</p>
      <p id="d1e6902">We estimate the sediment distribution fractions based on the inlet momentum
balance <inline-formula><mml:math id="M270" display="inline"><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, which is the ratio of the tidal and wave momentum flux <inline-formula><mml:math id="M271" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>M</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M272" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>M</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E32" content-type="numbered"><label>32</label><mml:math id="M273" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>I</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>M</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>M</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">16</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">w</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>g</mml:mi><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            For model stability, we depart from the original formulation of NA16 on two
occasions.
<list list-type="custom"><list-item><label>i.</label>
      <p id="d1e7042">Equation (31) is a departure of the original formulation (NA16). The new
function forces both inlet flanks to migrate at the same rate, making inlet
width purely a function of inlet hydrodynamics.</p></list-item><list-item><label>ii.</label>
      <p id="d1e7046">We impose a maximum flood–tidal delta volume following  Powell et al. (2006) such that <inline-formula><mml:math id="M274" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">fld</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mo>max⁡</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>×</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">e</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">eq</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.37</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M275" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>). If this maximum is reached, we limit <inline-formula><mml:math id="M276" display="inline"><mml:mi>I</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> to 0.1 to
ensure more efficient bypassing and inlet migration. In the original
parameterization of NA16, flood–tidal delta deposition (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M277" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) is not a
function of flood–tidal delta size. In BRIE  this would create
unrealistically large flood–tidal deltas.</p></list-item></list></p>
      <p id="d1e7123">Based on the sediment distribution, the inlet can deposit sediment into the
flood–tidal delta. Assuming that the flood–tidal delta is at sea level, we
can describe its rate of growth (Fig. 1c) as follows:
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E33" content-type="numbered"><label>33</label><mml:math id="M278" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            change the sediment budget in the littoral zone,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E34" content-type="numbered"><label>34</label><mml:math id="M279" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            and migrate alongshore in the direction of the littoral drift,
              <disp-formula id="Ch1.E35" content-type="numbered"><label>35</label><mml:math id="M280" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">updrift</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
            Changes to the back-barrier and shoreline locations are estimated at every
time step. Inlet migration, however, per time step <inline-formula><mml:math id="M281" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M282" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.05</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> years) is typically much less than the alongshore discretization
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M283" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M284" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">100</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m). We therefore track inlet migration by
assigning a “fraction migrated” to one grid cell in each inlet. The inlet
moves along the barrier if that fraction exceeds one or drops below zero.
New barrier island is constructed at sea level, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M285" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. A
second complication is that inlets are also typically (but not necessarily)
wider than the alongshore discretization <inline-formula><mml:math id="M286" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Inlets are therefore
allowed to exist on multiple alongshore cells <inline-formula><mml:math id="M287" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, dependent on the inlet
width, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M288" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M289" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the number of
alongshore cells taken up by inlet <inline-formula><mml:math id="M290" display="inline"><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 1).</p>
</sec>
</sec>
<?pagebreak page4022?><sec id="Ch1.S3.SS4">
  <label>3.4</label><title>Shoreline change</title>
      <?pagebreak page4023?><p id="d1e7456">After we have determined the various sources and sinks of sediment to the
nearshore environment, we distribute sediment alongshore between the
different cells based on alongshore sediment transport. We use an implicit
Crank–Nicolson scheme  (Crank and Nicolson, 1947) to solve for
shoreline change, governed by the following nonlinear diffusion equation:
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E36" content-type="numbered"><label>36</label><mml:math id="M291" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          which includes the effect of wave refraction and shoaling and is therefore
suitable to apply based on offshore (deepwater) wave conditions (AM06). We
have added a source–sink term <inline-formula><mml:math id="M292" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (m) to account for cross-shore
sediment movement. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M293" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is a nonlinear term and accounts for the fact
that diffusivity depends on the wave approach angle (AM06),
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E37" content-type="numbered"><label>37</label><mml:math id="M294" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi>k</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">T</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">12</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:msup><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="[" close="]"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>E</mml:mi><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ψ</mml:mi><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M295" display="inline"><mml:mi>k</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M296" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.06</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M297" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M298" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>
(Nienhuis et al., 2015) and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M299" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M300" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ψ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the angle dependence of
the diffusivity (AM06) that we compute as follows:
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E38" content-type="numbered"><label>38</label><mml:math id="M301" display="block"><mml:mrow><?xmltex \hack{\hbox\bgroup\fontsize{8.5}{8.5}\selectfont$\displaystyle}?><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ψ</mml:mi><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced close="]" open="["><mml:mrow><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">6</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msup><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><?xmltex \hack{$\egroup}?></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          which we convolve with the normalized angular distribution of wave energy
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M302" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>E</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>,
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E39" content-type="numbered"><label>39</label><mml:math id="M303" display="block"><mml:mrow><?xmltex \hack{\hbox\bgroup\fontsize{9.5}{9.5}\selectfont$\displaystyle}?><mml:mi>E</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close="" open="{"><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="left left left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">if</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">π</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><?xmltex \hack{$\egroup}?></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          to generate a long-term, wave-climate-averaged shoreline diffusivity for
every alongshore location <inline-formula><mml:math id="M304" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
      <p id="d1e8079">We rewrite the shoreline diffusion Eq. (28) into
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E40" content-type="numbered"><label>40</label><mml:math id="M305" display="block"><mml:mtable class="split" columnspacing="1em" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><?xmltex \hack{\hbox\bgroup\fontsize{8.8}{8.8}\selectfont$\displaystyle}?><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><?xmltex \hack{$\egroup}?></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>
          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M306" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M307" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> denote the specific time and space locations. We solve this
equation by inverting this nearly tri-diagonal matrix:
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E41" content-type="numbered"><label>41</label><mml:math id="M308" display="block"><mml:mtable rowspacing="0.2ex" columnspacing="1em" class="split" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced close="]" open="["><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="center center center center center"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋱</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced open="[" close="]"><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="center"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close="]" open="["><mml:mtable class="array" columnalign="center"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mrow><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">⋮</mml:mi></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>
          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M309" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Because we use <inline-formula><mml:math id="M310" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> at
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M311" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> instead of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M312" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> this is simply a linear diffusion equation. Indices in the
lower right and upper left corner indicate periodic boundary conditions. The
source <inline-formula><mml:math id="M313" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (m) can be described by
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E42" content-type="numbered"><label>42</label><mml:math id="M314" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ext</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">sf</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>j</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          representing offshore and onshore sediment fluxes that can erode and accrete
the shoreline and flood–tidal delta deposition that acts as a littoral
sink.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F6" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{6}?><label>Figure 6</label><caption><p id="d1e8777">Example model run showing <bold>(a)</bold> a barrier   island including tidal
inlet through time, <bold>(b)</bold> inlet facies after approximately 1300 years, <bold>(c)</bold> inlet location through time (such that the slope of the line represents the
migration rate), <bold>(d)</bold> average inlet migration rate, <bold>(e)</bold> the average fraction
of alongshore sediment brought into the inlet transported to the downdrift
coast (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M315" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), the flood–tidal delta (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M316" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), and the barrier itself
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M317" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">α</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <bold>(f)</bold> the transgressive sediment flux due to overwash and due to
flood–tidal delta deposition. Model code and animated model output can be found in Nienhuis and Lorenzo-Trueba (2019) and Nienhuis (2019).</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=398.338583pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f06.png"/>

        </fig>

      <p id="d1e8827">The shoreline model is unconditionally stable and second-order accurate in
space and time. We discretize the coastline into cells with width <inline-formula><mml:math id="M318" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (typically 100 m). We use a time step <inline-formula><mml:math id="M319" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (typically 0.05 years) to ensure
smooth inlet migration and reasonably accurate shoreline change. However, we
note that the overwash and inlet elements of this model are not solved by
Eq. (41) and are therefore not necessarily second-order accurate nor
unconditionally stable. Section 5 presents the grid and time resolution
tests.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS5">
  <label>3.5</label><title>Other moving boundaries</title>
      <p id="d1e8858">At the end of each time step, we update the shoreface toe position <inline-formula><mml:math id="M320" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>,
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E43" content-type="numbered"><label>43</label><mml:math id="M321" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">t</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          back-barrier location (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M322" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>),
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E44" content-type="numbered"><label>44</label><mml:math id="M323" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msubsup><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msubsup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">breach</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          and barrier height (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M324" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>),
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E45" content-type="numbered"><label>45</label><mml:math id="M325" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          independently for all alongshore locations <inline-formula><mml:math id="M326" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and run another time step.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS6">
  <label>3.6</label><title>Model output</title>
      <p id="d1e9065">After a model simulation (typically 10 kyr) we obtain shoreline,
back-barrier, and shoreface morphodynamics for different scenarios given by,
for example, SLR rates, wave climates, and tidal conditions. One aspect of
particular interest, and the primary motivation for this model, is the
transgressive flux due to inlet activity. We define a ratio <inline-formula><mml:math id="M327" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>,
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E46" content-type="numbered"><label>46</label><mml:math id="M328" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>F</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">overwash</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M329" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">overwash</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>⋅</mml:mo><mml:munder><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:munder><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">ow</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (m<inline-formula><mml:math id="M330" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M331" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M332" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the along-coast average transgressive sediment
flux by inlet formation and flood–tidal delta deposition for all inlets,
            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E47" content-type="numbered"><label>47</label><mml:math id="M333" display="block"><mml:mtable class="split" columnspacing="1em" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">breach</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>W</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:munder><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>.</mml:mo><mml:mo>.</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:munder><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">r</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">in</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msub><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>
          <inline-formula><mml:math id="M334" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> quantifies the fraction of the total transgressive flux due to inlets and
can range from 0 to 1.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3.SS7">
  <label>3.7</label><title>Stratigraphy module</title>
      <p id="d1e9304">Aside from the usual output, such as transgressive fluxes, inlet
morphodynamics, and barrier island change, the model can also compute the
synthetic stratigraphy of a barrier at a certain location <inline-formula><mml:math id="M335" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">strat</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> for all
grid cells <inline-formula><mml:math id="M336" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 6). When <inline-formula><mml:math id="M337" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> exceeds <inline-formula><mml:math id="M338" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">strat</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, the model saves the
location <inline-formula><mml:math id="M339" display="inline"><mml:mi>j</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, lagoon depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M340" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, the sediment deposit thickness (i.e.,
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M341" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>), and the responsible process, either flood–tidal delta
deposition or storm overwash. While <inline-formula><mml:math id="M342" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&lt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">strat</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">&lt;</mml:mi><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:msub><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">b</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, we record the height of the barrier <inline-formula><mml:math id="M343" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> as dune construction or erosion
bounded vertically by <inline-formula><mml:math id="M344" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M345" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>. If an inlet is present, it erodes the deposit
up to a depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M346" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>d</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Inlet migration forms sedimentary facies between
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M347" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>d</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M348" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>. If an inlet is closed, it forms inlet fill facies. These
barrier island facies allow us to compare model output to geological
reconstructions of barrier islands (e.g., Mallinson et al.,
2010).</p>
</sec>
</sec>
<?pagebreak page4024?><sec id="Ch1.S4">
  <label>4</label><title>Example model runs</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S4.SS1">
  <label>4.1</label><title>Model without inlets</title>
      <p id="d1e9477">We first investigated a simulation without inlets, focusing on the effect of
alongshore transport gradients and barrier overwash on barrier evolution. As
we might expect, in the case of no inlets and uniform initial conditions
alongshore, the barrier retreats uniformly and alongshore sediment fluxes do
not affect barrier response. We also performed a model experiment with an
initially variable barrier width driven by spatial changes in the bay
shoreline location (Fig. 5). In this scenario, the initially narrower
barrier stretches overwash more than the wider stretches and therefore
transgress faster. As shoreline curvatures increases, the magnitude of the
alongshore sediment fluxes directed to the narrow stretches also increases,
which reduces the width of the initially wider stretches. Interestingly, we
find that time lags in shoreline interconnectivity can cause the initially
rapidly transgressing stretch to stay in place and eventually become
landward of other portions of the coast, a phenomenon also reported by Ashton
and Lorenzo-Trueba (2018). Eventually, after a few oscillations
that can last for hundreds of years, the barrier approaches a spatially
uniform migration rate (Fig. 5).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F7" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{7}?><label>Figure 7</label><caption><p id="d1e9482">Model volume (barrier volume and offshore deposits) relative to
the analytically determined model volume for <bold>(a)</bold> averaged for different time
steps and alongshore grid lengths, as well as <bold>(b)</bold> through time, showing mass
conservation.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=369.885827pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f07.png"/>

        </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S4.SS2">
  <label>4.2</label><title>Model with inlets</title>
      <p id="d1e9505">Including tidal inlets, we see a richer set of model dynamics. We
investigated barrier change, including inlets, for an SLR rate of 2 mm yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M349" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>, a wave height of 1 m, and a tidal range of 1 m. After an initial
spin-up phase associated with large overwash fluxes, barrier island response
stays highly dynamic and does not converge to an equilibrium response,
despite the imposition of constant boundary conditions (Fig. 6). Inlets open, close,
interact, and migrate preferentially with the direction of the littoral
drift. Inlet migration rates vary gradually, and inlet sediment distribution
is initially dominated by alongshore sediment bypassing and gradually
becomes more flood–tidal delta dominated (Fig. 6e). The inlet transgressive
sediment flux is highest when the flood–tidal delta deposition and
alongshore sediment bypassing are roughly equal (Fig. 6f). Barrier
stratigraphy at that time shows that inlet migration facies make up most of
the barrier, even though not all of the transgression is due to the inlet
(Fig. 6b).</p>
</sec>
</sec>
<?pagebreak page4025?><sec id="Ch1.S5">
  <label>5</label><title>Model tests</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S5.SS1">
  <label>5.1</label><title>Conservation of mass</title>
      <p id="d1e9537">To investigate model mass conservation, we summed the volume of the barrier
and offshore deposits (Fig. 7). Comparison to an identical model without
inlets shows that slight losses and gains can be attributed to inlet
morphodynamics, likely inlet migration and closure (Fig. 7b). For example,
we do not track the sediment lost or gained as inlets change their
cross-sectional area from an initial breach width. We also assume that
increases in the back-barrier location can be considered small enough so
that there is one depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M350" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">lagoon</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, whereas in reality these deposits exist
on a surface with slope <inline-formula><mml:math id="M351" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>s</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">background</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Regardless of these assumptions,
model volume (offshore deposits and the barrier island itself) does not
depend on the time step <inline-formula><mml:math id="M352" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and the grid length <inline-formula><mml:math id="M353" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>; these
values only deviate a few percent around their mean, with no obvious trend
in time (Fig. 7b).</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S5.SS2">
  <label>5.2</label><title>Comparison to the 1-D model</title>
      <p id="d1e9590">For model verification, we compared model results to the original
cross-shore model of barrier change that only includes overwash (LTA14)
(Fig. 8). Our model without inlets produces the same dynamics as the
original cross-shore model (LTA14), resulting in the same overwash flux
(Fig. 8a). Comparing the cross-shore model to the BRIE model with inlets
(forced nonuniformity)  we see some clear differences. Even though the
average shoreline location along the 100 km barrier follows roughly the same
trajectory (Fig. 8c) and therefore has a similar transgression (erosion)
rate (Fig. 8b), the individual locations vary significantly. The straight
barrier reproduced by the BRIE model without inlets is now variable
alongshore. Transgression rates vary from <inline-formula><mml:math id="M354" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M355" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> (progradation) to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M356" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m yr<inline-formula><mml:math id="M357" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> (erosion). Even though the overall trajectory is a result of the sea
level history and the passive inundation of the main (non-barrier) coast
(Wolinsky and Murray, 2009) (Fig. 8c), significant
deviations from this trend appear and are reflected in the overwash rates
(Fig. 8a). In particular, the inlet transgressive sediment flux rates are
variable.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F8" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{8}?><label>Figure 8</label><caption><p id="d1e9639">Comparison of <bold>(a)</bold> transgressive fluxes, <bold>(b)</bold> shoreline erosion
rates, and <bold>(c)</bold> shoreline locations for the BRIE model without inlets to the
model with inlets. Inlets induce stochasticity resulting from inlet opening,
growing, migrating, and closing.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=497.923228pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f08.png"/>

        </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S5.SS3">
  <label>5.3</label><title>Sensitivity to grid resolution and time step</title>
      <p id="d1e9665">We investigated the sensitivity of the model output (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M358" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">overwash</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>,
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M359" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>Q</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">inlet</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M360" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) by varying the grid resolution and time resolution and
holding all other parameters constant. In general, we find that these fluxes
vary approximately <inline-formula><mml:math id="M361" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>∼</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">20</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> % between different settings (Fig. 9). These deviations appear only in simulations that include inlets and are
likely caused by a sensitivity to small perturbations such as random wave
angles. For example, comparing multiple simulations with equal settings,
including grid and time, we obtain a variability in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M362" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (Fig. 10), with a
standard deviation of 0.025. Sensitivity to grid spacing and time steps can
also be caused by the discretization of inlet migration rates and distances (Eq. 35).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F9" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{9}?><label>Figure 9</label><caption><p id="d1e9716">Tidal-induced transgressive sediment flux, storm-overwash-induced
transgressive sediment flux, and the ratio <inline-formula><mml:math id="M363" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> as a function of grid length
and time step normalized by their values at a time step of 0.05 years and 100 m alongshore grid discretization.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=455.244094pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f09.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F10"><?xmltex \currentcnt{10}?><label>Figure 10</label><caption><p id="d1e9734">Variability in the inlet fraction of the transgressive sediment
flux <inline-formula><mml:math id="M364" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> for varying grid lengths <inline-formula><mml:math id="M365" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and time steps <inline-formula><mml:math id="M366" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and
for constant <inline-formula><mml:math id="M367" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M368" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, highlighting the fraction of the
variability in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M369" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> due to inherent model variability.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=241.848425pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f10.png"/>

        </fig>

</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S6">
  <label>6</label><title>Model evaluation</title>
      <p id="d1e9807">It is challenging to evaluate long-term barrier island models against
natural examples. Given their erosional nature, long-term records and barrier
dynamics are scarce  (Mellett and Plater, 2018). Thus, instead
of a direct comparison to natural examples, we evaluate our model by
exploring the sensitivity of the model output to a variety of boundary
conditions (Fig. 11). We find that, even though individual simulations show
great variability over time (Fig. 6), longer-timescale dynamics of barrier
islands present physically meaningful relationships with model boundary
conditions. For example, wave height tends to increase the effect that
inlets have on barrier transgression, likely by making inlets more
wave dominated and by increasing their migration rates. Inlets are<?pagebreak page4026?> most
effective for intermediate back-barrier depths, whereas overwash volumes are
highest for deeper back-barrier depths. The greater effect of inlets for an
intermediate depth could be because flood–tidal delta growth is enhanced,
thereby restricting tidal flow and forcing the opening of inlets elsewhere
(Fig. 11).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F11" specific-use="star"><?xmltex \currentcnt{11}?><label>Figure 11</label><caption><p id="d1e9812">Fraction <inline-formula><mml:math id="M370" display="inline"><mml:mi>F</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> for varying model parameters showing the mean and the
range obtained for three different experiments. In red is the value of the
specific parameter that is held constant across the other
simulations.</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=369.885827pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/12/4013/2019/gmd-12-4013-2019-f11.png"/>

      </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S7" sec-type="conclusions">
  <label>7</label><title>Discussion and conclusion</title>
      <p id="d1e9836">We have built a 2-D barrier island model (i.e., the BRIE model) to simulate
barrier island response to SLR that couples alongshore sediment transport
processes, storm overwash, and tidal inlet morphodynamics. The mathematics
of the approach are verified by comparing model predictions without inlets
against the LTA14 cross-shore model. We also show that sediment volume is
conserved with sufficient accuracy under a wide range of scenarios. Model
results demonstrate that feedbacks between shoreface dynamics, barrier
overwash, and alongshore transport processes can result in a complex history
of interconnected behavior between the<?pagebreak page4027?> shoreline and barrier location.
Moreover, we find that the relative importance of tidal inlets and storm
overwash in transporting sediments onshore during barrier landward migration
can significantly vary as a function of a wide range of factors, including
sea level rise rate, wave climate, barrier and inlet geometries, and
antecedent topography. Overall, model results highlight the importance of
the interplay between cross-shore and alongshore processes, particularly
tidal processes, in understanding future and past barrier response to
sea level rise.</p>
      <p id="d1e9839">The BRIE modeling framework does not aim to reproduce the evolution of any
particular field location. Instead, we focus on exploring the relative role
of tidal and overwash fluxes in the response of barriers to SLR, which
requires omitting processes that could also play a significant role. For
instance, the BRIE model does not account for human activities and coastal
protection strategies along the coast (e.g., sea walls, groins, beach
nourishment), which are known to affect coastal response at different
spatial and temporal timescales (Jin et al.,
2013; Murray et al., 2013). Rather than accounting for marsh–lagoon dynamics
in the back-barrier environment, which can potentially influence the rate of
barrier landward migration under sea level rise
(FitzGerald et al., 2008;
Lorenzo-Trueba and Mariotti, 2017), we define a fine sediment thickness
based on the lagoon depth and the basement slope. We also ignore the
stochastic nature of storms, as well as the potential dynamic influence of
shoreface lithology. Given its simplicity, however, the BRIE modeling
framework can be extended to account for additional processes that might
affect barrier evolution, including the ones mentioned above.</p>
</sec>

      
      </body>
    <back><notes notes-type="codeavailability"><title>Code availability</title>

      <p id="d1e9846">The model is written in MATLAB. The source code and  user manual are available at the CSDMS repository and at GitHub under an MIT license:
csdms.colorado.edu/wiki/Model:Barrier_Inlet_Environment_(BRIE)
_Model;
<ext-link xlink:href="https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1218142" ext-link-type="DOI">10.5281/zenodo.1218142</ext-link> (Nienhuis and Lorenzo-Trueba, 2019) <uri>https://github.com/csdms-contrib/Barrier_Inlet_
Environment_BRIE_Model</uri> (last access: 22 August 2019).</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="dataavailability"><title>Data availability</title>

      <p id="d1e9858">The model output used to generate Fig. 6 and supplemental animation S1 can be found in the Supplement: <ext-link xlink:href="https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/GMDXY" ext-link-type="DOI">10.17605/OSF.IO/GMDXY</ext-link> (Nienhuis, 2019).</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="videosupplement"><title>Video supplement</title>

      <p id="d1e9867">Animation S1 describes the transgression of an example barrier island
simulated using BRIE. It can be found in the Supplement:
<ext-link xlink:href="https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/GMDXY" ext-link-type="DOI">10.17605/OSF.IO/GMDXY</ext-link> (Nienhuis, 2019).</p>
  </notes><app-group>
        <supplementary-material position="anchor"><p id="d1e9873">The supplement related to this article is available online at: <inline-supplementary-material xlink:href="https://doi.org/10.5194/gmd-12-4013-2019-supplement" xlink:title="zip">https://doi.org/10.5194/gmd-12-4013-2019-supplement</inline-supplementary-material>.</p></supplementary-material>
        </app-group><notes notes-type="authorcontribution"><title>Author contributions</title>

      <p id="d1e9882">JHN conceived the study and  built the model. Both authors contributed to data analysis and paper preparation.</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="competinginterests"><title>Competing interests</title>

      <p id="d1e9889">The authors declare that they have no conflict of interest.</p>
  </notes><ack><title>Acknowledgements</title><?pagebreak page4028?><p id="d1e9895">The authors acknowledge helpful comments from Eli D. Lazarus
and an anonymous reviewer, as well as insightful discussions with Andrew Ashton and Brad Murray.</p></ack><notes notes-type="financialsupport"><title>Financial support</title>

      <p id="d1e9900">This research was supported by National Science Foundation grant EAR-1810855
to Jaap H. Nienhuis and CNH-1518503 to Jorge Lorenzo-Trueba. Jaap H. Nienhuis received support from the American
Chemical Society (PRF no. 59916-DNI8) and the Dutch NWO (VI.Veni.192.123).
Jorge Lorenzo-Trueba received support from the American Chemical Society (PRF
no. 58817-DNI8).</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="reviewstatement"><title>Review statement</title>

      <p id="d1e9906">This paper was edited by Robert Marsh and reviewed by Eli D. Lazarus and one anonymous referee.</p>
  </notes><ref-list>
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    <!--<article-title-html>Simulating barrier island response to sea level rise with the barrier island and inlet environment (BRIE) model v1.0</article-title-html>
<abstract-html><p>Barrier islands are low-lying coastal landforms vulnerable to
inundation and erosion by sea level rise. Despite their socioeconomic and
ecological importance, their future morphodynamic response to sea level rise
or other hazards is poorly understood. To tackle this knowledge gap, we
outline and describe the BarrieR Inlet Environment (BRIE) model that can
simulate long-term barrier morphodynamics. In addition to existing overwash
and shoreface formulations, BRIE accounts for alongshore sediment transport,
inlet dynamics, and flood–tidal delta deposition along barrier islands.
Inlets within BRIE can open, close, migrate, merge with other inlets, and
build flood–tidal delta deposits. Long-term simulations reveal complex
emergent behavior of tidal inlets resulting from interactions with sea level
rise and overwash. BRIE also includes a stratigraphic module, which
demonstrates that barrier dynamics under constant sea level rise rates can
result in stratigraphic profiles composed of inlet fill, flood–tidal delta,
and overwash deposits. In general, the BRIE model represents a process-based
exploratory view of barrier island morphodynamics that can be used to
investigate long-term risks of flooding and erosion in barrier environments.
For example, BRIE can simulate barrier island drowning in cases in which the
imposed sea level rise rate is faster than the morphodynamic response of the
barrier island.</p></abstract-html>
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